The Elusive Al-Wajbah Fort

There's several posts on Al Wajbah forts on the internet, but no images, so I was keen to visit and photograph the place.

Al Wajbah is of significant historical interest. It was the base of Sheikh Bin Jassim , and from the wadi below Al Wajbah, Sheikh Bin Jassim gathered the Qatar tribes people, ready to attack and defeat the Ottomans in a battle that for many would mark the start of the Qatari nation. (See The Rise of the Qatar Ruling Family and the Battle of Al Wajbah for more information.)

Al Wajbah was built in the nineteenth century, and is probably the oldest standing fort left in Qatar, although there are much older ruins in the country. The fort has sturdy walls with a tower at each corner, and slits through which arrows or bullets could be fired.

Rain water gathers below, and leads to a rare oasis. (Another example can be found on the Zekreet peninsula.)

Unfortunately, my visit was cut short before I even left the house. Ringing a friend for advice, I was informed that access to both Al Wajbah fort has now been closed.The grounds of the Royal Palace now encloses the the fort and the Oasis, and photography is no longer allowed.

Other forts, however, are still accessible, and you can read and view images of the following forts on our blog and website:

Al Koot Fort

Al Zubarah Fort

Barzan Towers

Umm Slal Mohammad: Forts Streams and Water

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Al Zubarah Fort

The fact that Al Zubarah fort was built as recently as 1936 is testimony to the turbulent relations it had with its neighbour and one time master, Bahrain. There are a number of other ruins and excavations in the area, but this is the most complete and one of the best known, decorating many postcards and books. A cannon decorates the front of this fort, while the Qatari flag flutters proudly at the top.


Until relatively recently, according to Discovering Qatar, it was used a police post, with prisoners held in the top rooms of the towers. These rooms could be reached only by reached by a rickety ladder. Now only one of these top rooms is accessible - still by ladder.


When you arrive the caretaker will give you some keys, and you can let yourself into see the displays of findings from the nearby excavations. We were more interested in the old well - when you peer through the metal grid that closes off its top, you can still see yourself reflected in the water deep below - although our view was slightly spoilt by a floating bottles.


Climb up the internal stairs and you'll find curious holes in the metre thick walls. The holes allow light to come in but are twisted to make it difficult for enemies to fire into the fort. Wooden shutters are still used in the windows, and can be opened to allow the cooling wind in.

To get to Al Zubara fort, head out of Doha along North Road. Start looking for signs to Al Zubara after the turn off to Al Khor. You'll need to do a U-turn and head back a few metres before turning right. Then just follow the road until you get to the fort.

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Barzan Towers

The Barzan Towers were built at the start of the 20th century by Sheik Mohammed Bin Jassim Al Thani, at a time when the Ottomans were still sulking in Al Koot fort.

Barzan means high place, and it was said that pearl divers could see the towers when they returned from their pearl trips. They were essentially watch towers, probably built to protect an area where rain water collected - greenery, a well and a brook can still be seen in Um Slal Mohammed today.

The towers have been renovated (read completely rebuilt), and features such as modern air-conditioners do not add to the authenticity of the experience (although they may make it a lot more bearable in the summer months! However, the towers, with their thick stone walls, still make an interesting trip.

The towers also afford a good view of the surrounding area. You can see from the walls the extreme gaps in wealth that exist in Qatar. On one side of the towers huge modern and rather tasteless houses stand, on the other makeshift shacks exist. We watched one man walk a mile from these shacks to collect water from a tap.

The Barzan towers are located on the outskirts of Umm Slal Mohammed and are (just) visible from the main road. You can read more about the towers on the Heritage of Qatar website.

Also see: Things to See and Do in Qatar

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Umm Slal Mohammed: forts and streams

In addition to its more famous Barzan Towers Umm Slal Mohammed has two older forts – though given their size fortified houses might be a better name for them. They are located closer to the centre of town then the Barzan Towers, one by the mosque and the other opposite within a larger complex of houses.

Neither of them allow visitors to enter; the first is falling apart while the second appears, from the satellite dishes that sprout from it, to appear to be still in use.

The area around these forts is fascinating. On one side there is a plantation of dead palm trees,which looks like something out of a war-zone. Climb down into them, and you’ll still see the way the earth has been built up around them to trap any available water. And water was (and is) available – a massive well (be careful if you are with children – it's not fenced off) is present, with murky water at the bottom and an ancient Hudderfield pump still present at the top.

Directly behind one of the forts is one of the greenest areas I have seen in Qatar. Not only does it have grass, there’s a tiny little brook flowing through it, and it' s truly refreshing to hear the sound of running water in dry Qatar! With this unusual water and greenery, there are also a lot of birds and bird song to be heard.

Read about things to see and do in Qatar

Listen to the sound of the brook.

The Barzan Towers

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Al Koot fort

Al Koot Fort was built in the Ottoman period, in 1880, when Doha was little more than a village. At the time this would have been at the outskirts of the town. The Ottomans had been welcomed by Sheikh Qassim, although by the end of the century they were at war together: see The Rise of the Qatar Ruling Family for details. The fort is currently shut to visitors.

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